GRASS/LAWN CLIPPINGS
Actually, it's usually easier to
leave grass clippings in the lawn,
where they will decompose and benefit
the soil directly. However,
they can be composted, too. Be
cautious to add grass clippings in
very thin layers, or thoroughly
mix them in with other compost
ingredients, as they otherwise
tend to become slimy and matted
down, excluding air from the pile.
Fresh grass clippings are high in
nitrogen, making them a 'green'
compost ingredient.
HAY
Farmers are often very happy to
get rid of spoiled hay bales that
have been out in the rain, and
will give them away or sell them at a
low price. Grass hay will probably
contain a lot of seed, which can
resprout in your garden. Alfalfa
hay will compost very readily. The
greener the hay, the more nitrogen
it contains. Be sure that any hay
you plan to compost is well-moistened
prior to addition to the pile.
KITCHEN WASTES
Fruit and vegetable peels/rinds,
tea bags, coffee grounds,
eggshells, and similar materials
are great stuff to compost. They
tend to be high in nitrogen (this
puts them in the 'greens' category),
and are usually quite soft and
moist. As such, kitchen wastes need
to be mixed in with drier/bulkier
materials to allow complete air
penetration. Many people compost
their kitchen wastes in
enclosed worm bins or bury them
8" deep in the soil, to keep from
attracting pests to an outdoor
compost pile (check with your local
government to see if it has regulations
about this -- some forbid
open piles containing food wastes
because of the pest issue).
Avoid composting meat scraps, fatty
food wastes, milk products,
and bones -- these materials are
very attractive to pests.
LEAVES
If you live in an area where autumn
leaves are still thrown away as
garbage, cash in on the bounty
each year by acquiring your
neighbors' leaves! Generally, leaves
are an excellent compost
ingredient. They can mat down and
exclude air, though, so be sure
that any clumps are thoroughly
broken up, or that the leaves are
only used in very thin layers.
Ash and poplar/cottonwood leaves
can raise soil pH if used in compost
-- this may not be beneficial if
your soil is already alkaline,
as many soils are in the West
(especially in semiarid and arid
climates). Dead, dry leaves are in
the 'browns' category, while living
green leaves contain abundant
nitrogen and are considered 'greens'.
MANURE
Horse, cow, sheep, and poultry manures
are often available for
free from local ranches, farms,
and stables. They can burn plants if
applied when fresh, so be sure
they get well composted. Manures
typically contain quite a bit of
nitrogen (the fresher the manure, the
more nitrogen it contains) and
are considered a 'green' ingredient.
Some manures may contain weed seeds.
Fresh manures can get a
compost pile to heat up quickly,
and will accelerate the
decomposition of woody materials,
autumn leaves, and other
'browns'.
STRAW
Dry straw is a good material for
helping to keep a compost pile
aerated, because it tends to create
lots of passageways for air to
get into the pile. Be sure to wet
the straw, as it is very slow to
decompose otherwise. Straw is definitely
a 'brown' and also
requires mixture with 'greens'
to break down quickly. Many
stables use straw as a bedding
material for horses -- straw that has
undergone this treatment is mixed
in with horse manure and breaks
down more quickly.
WEEDS AND OTHER GARDEN WASTES
Many types of weeds and old garden
plants can be composted.
Avoid weeds that have begun to
go to seed, as seeds may survive
all but the hottest compost piles.
Some types of weeds are
'pernicious weeds' and will resprout
in the compost pile -- avoid
using these unless they are thoroughly
dead. Green weeds are (you
guessed it) a 'green', while dead
brown weeds are a 'brown'.
WOOD CHIPS AND SAWDUST
Wood products belong in the 'browns'
category, because they are
fairly low in nitrogen. Some sawdusts,
especially from
broadleaved/deciduous tress, will
break down quickly in an active
compost pile. Others, especially
from coniferous trees, will take
longer to decay. Stir sawdust thoroughly
into the pile or use very
thin layers. Coarse wood chips
will very slowly decay, and are
probably better used as mulch unless
you have lots of time to wait.
Be sure not to compost chips or
sawdust from any sort of
chemically-treated wood -- you
could be adding toxics like
arsenic to your pile if you do.
What NOT to Compost
Do not add the following items:
Whether because of toxins, plant
or human diseases, or weed
troubles, there are some things
that shouldn't be put into compost
piles. Avoid composting the following
materials:
CHEMICALLY-TREATED WOOD PRODUCTS
Sawdust is often available from
constructions sites, friends, or your
own building projects. If you are
considering composting sawdust,
be sure of the origin of the sawdust.
Sawdust from
chemically-treated wood products
can be bad stuff to compost.
For example, take pressure-treated
wood (sometimes called
CCA), which usually has a greenish
tint to it (I have also seen it in
other colors). It contains arsenic,
a highly toxic element, as well as
chromium and copper. There is evidence
to suggest that arsenic is
leached into the soil from these
products when they are used to
make compost bins or raised beds,
so composting the sawdust
would certainly be a mistake. You
may wish to read the 'Letters'
section of Organic Gardening, April
1994 and July/August 1992,
for more information. Avoid other
chemically-treated wood
products and sawdust as well, such
as wood treated with creosote
or 'penta' preservative.
DISEASED PLANTS
Many plant disease organisms are
killed by consistent hot
composting, but it's difficult
to make sure that every speck of the
diseased material gets fully composted.
It's best not to compost
diseased plant material at all,
to avoid reinfecting next year's
garden.
HUMAN WASTES
Human feces can contain disease
organisms that will make people
very sick. Composting human feces
safely requires that the
compost pile reach high (thermophilic)
temperatures over a period
of time. It isn't necessarily that
difficult to reach these temperatures
in a home compost pile, but the
potential health costs of improper
composting are high. Composting
of human feces should not be
attempted, except by experienced
'hot pile' composters who are
well informed of the temperatures
and times required to kill
pathogens, and who are willing
to take 100% responsibility for the
process and product. If you would
like to learn more about
composting humanure, I recommend
The Humanure Handbook,
listed in the resources section
of the Rot Web.
MEAT, BONES, AND FATTY FOOD WASTES
These materials are very attractive
to pests (in an urban setting,
this could mean rats...). In addition,
fatty food wastes can be very
slow to break down, because the
fat can exclude the air that
composting microbes need to do
their work.
PERNICIOUS WEEDS
Morning glory/bindweed, sheep sorrel,
ivy, several kinds of
grasses, and some other plants
can resprout from their roots
and/or stems in the compost pile.
Just when you thought you had
them all chopped up, you'd actually
helped them to multiply! Don't
compost these weeds unless they
are completely dead and dry
(you may want to leave them in
a sunny place for a couple of
weeks before composting). Remember
also that composting
weeds that have gone to seed will
create weeds in next year's
garden, unless a very hot pile
temperature can be maintained to kill
the seeds.
PET WASTES
Dog and cat feces may carry diseases
that can infect humans. It is
best NEVER to use them in compost
piles. Some people do bury
them 8" deep in the soil, but ONLY
in areas where food crops are
never grown.